Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Plague! which reminds me...

So, I awoke this morning to a report on NPR that a man on the Navajo reservation has just been diagnosed with bubonic plague. Now, everyone who knows me knows that I have a weird interest/obsession with this particular bacterium. (I know why---it's all perfectly logical, but it's complicated).

But this reminded me to tell you about Saturday, when it took me TWO HOURS to get through Shiprock, NM, a wide spot in the road, because of the big Navajo Sundowner fair that was happening. There were far more people there than the town was designed to accommodate. Ferris wheels, and food and craft stands lining the road, and people walking just everywhere, in the rain. The Navajo police were there, directing traffic at every intersection, and there were entire fields full of parked RVs and cars and tents. Here's what the NEW YORK TIMES says about it:

Shiprock Navajo Fair, Shiprock. The oldest and most traditional Navajo fair, it features a rodeo, dancing and singing, a parade, and arts-and-crafts exhibits. Call tel. 800/448-1240 for details. Early October.

So you know it's a big deal, because the NYT generally doesn't concern itself with little festivals.

Oddly enough, it seemed to be the custom to throw all the trash on the ground. It seemed mostly confined to the median of the road, but the place was completely packed, so maybe that's just where I could SEE the trash. There were no trash cans anywhere that I could see, so I guess the idea was to go around and clean it all up afterwards? The dogs were having a field day. I saw one with a whole, raw chicken in his mouth, just trotting down the road with his tail gently wagging. That dog was having a good day!

One of the more interesting things was the fact that not one NOT ONE of the food stands was a professional business. They were all just mom and pop operations, set up to sell fry bread or Navajo tacos or mutton stew. Sadly, there was no way I was going to find a place to park and get out and try some! I just had to stare at the tasty goodness from inside my glass and steel bubble.

At any rate, it happens in early October every year, so if you were looking for a way to explore the culture where you wouldn't feel uncomfortable, this is probably it!

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